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Ancient Angers to antique emporiums: how to spend a week in the Atlantic Loire valley

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Outdoor activities, festivals and fantastic regional food make this part of western France a must-visit family destination

From beautiful countryside to historic chateaux, and sprawling vineyards to markets selling local delicacies, there’s plenty to explore and enjoy in the Atlantic Loire valley. Wondering where to start? Here are our tips for a week in a region that takes in the cities of Nantes, Saumur, Le Mans, Angers and La Baule, and covers the five departments of Loire Atlantique, Anjou, Mayenne, Sarthe and Vendée.

Outdoor activities
Atlantic Loire valley’s forests, riverbanks and hillsides make it the perfect setting for holiday activities, and it’s a popular destination for cyclists, hikers and anyone wanting to take to the water. As such, there are more than 400 nautical centres on the Loire and its tributaries, making it great for canoeing, kayaking and boat hire, or simply a pleasant walk by the water.

The valley’s riverbanks are a popular destination for cyclists

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Nine unmissable attractions of the Atlantic Loire valley – in pictures

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As well as imposing chateaux, there’s period charm aplenty in the towns and villages of this region of France

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From the Dolomites to Sicily: readers’ favourite unsung places in Italy

Spa towns, perfect seaside haunts, brilliant food and art, and spectacular walks feature on our tour of lesser-known Italy, courtesy of our readers

The Tuscia area of northern Lazio, within easy reach of Rome, is a quiet oasis of history and geography: from the papal palace in Viterbo, follow winding roads through rolling green hills of oak forests and hazelnut orchards to the stone monsters of Bomarzo park, prehistoric cave homes in the nearby gorges and the high art of Caprarola town. But my favourite place is Civita di Bagnoregio, a fortress town on a volcanic plug, with views to distant crater lakes.
Lucy

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Faded no more: the return of British seaside resorts’ grand hotels

Many coastal towns are seeing a post-pandemic resurgence, with new builds and stately piles being returned to their former grandeur

• Rowan Moore: Historic British seaside hotels are glorious white elephants, but perhaps they can have new lives

The Grand is a dog-eared Cluedo board of a hotel. The art deco ballroom, its sprung dancefloor covered by carpet, opens into a library used for community events, which in turn leads to an enormous dining room, while the other wing has a billiards room.

Everything in this Folkestone landmark is a bit higgledy-piggledy: spare tables and chairs shoved to one side, curtains askew, a grand piano here and there. A 1920s-style mural completes the Agatha Christie feel. There’s even a stray three-pronged candlestick.

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‘Scotland in miniature’: why the Isle of Arran is perfect for a family holiday

With its mysterious stones, fairytale waterfalls and dinosaur footprints, Arran is a magical playground for children

As we climb up to Eas Mor waterfall in the south of the island of Arran, I pause to read the words carved into a fallen tree across our path: “Bow your head for you enter sacred and magical lands.” There’s a lot about Arran that is sacred and magical. Growing up in Glasgow, I went to the island several times as a child, played mini golf at Brodick and spent hours combing beaches for perfectly smooth, multicoloured stones. My husband’s family used to decamp from London for long summer holidays too: stories of three-year-olds trudging up Goatfell – the island’s tallest peak at 874 metres – are the stuff of family fable.

We have two children of our own now – Henry, eight, and Isobel, five – and we brought them back to this beautiful Firth of Clyde island in May half-term. Arran is often dubbed “Scotland in miniature”, but that is especially true and pertinent for families. You can be there in about two hours from Glasgow, and the island’s main road is a continuous 55-mile loop around its coast, taking in wild beaches, misty castles, whisky distilleries and looming granite mountains.

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The bucket and spade list: 10 new reasons to visit the British seaside this summer

From snorkel trails and seafood restaurants to maritime festivals and a ‘museum of fun’, here’s what’s new and exciting around the UK coast

I love walking in Blackpool. The stroll along the prom takes time and a bit of effort – it’s almost three miles from the South Shore to the Grand Hotel – and takes me past three piers and more than a century of architecture including Victorian, art deco, modern and postwar municipal. In her 2023 novel Pleasure Beach, Helen Palmer pastiches Joyce’s Ulysses: her home town perfectly suits its promiscuous, genre-hopping, list-loving energy. The expanses of sand, big skies and far horizons of the Irish Sea always distract and calm the soul.

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If you’re fond of seafood and salty air: readers’ favourite places to eat at the British seaside

Our tipsters savour delights at cafes, restaurants and pubs by the sea, from Bangor to Brighton

The cockle chowder served in a cottage loaf at The Peterboat in Leigh-on-Sea, Southend, is to die for (£19.95). The prawn and chorizo linguine at £17.95 equally so! Fabulous location, right on the sea wall, and the service is always excellent. It’s so easy to reach on public transport that customers can enjoy a glass of wine from their extensive list.
Carolyn Simpson

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From Normandy to Provence via Alsace: readers’ favourite unsung places in France

Summer night markets, fairytale villages and painterly beaches feature among our tipsters’ travels

At Chantelle village, 40 miles north of Clermont-Ferrand in the Auvergne, the organic butcher and deli offers game, pâtés, and wine, while fresh croissants await every morning at the boulangerie. The abbey, brocantes (secondhand shops) and bar are also popular with visitors, mostly from France. Visits here are made even more magical by hikes through the Gorge de la Bouble, lake swims, gourmet farmers’ markets in surrounding villages and plentiful live music all summer. I return every summer, following Anne of France’s footsteps in the 15th and early 16th centuries. She sought refuge here in the abbey, where she could retreat from the politicking of the French court.
Anne Page

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From pruning to reforesting – how good agricultural practices can lift cocoa communities

With environmental challenges, rising populations and a lack of crop investment, it’s becoming increasingly difficult to farm cocoa in west African countries. So how can positive changes be brought about in this area?

In Côte d’Ivoire and Ghana, farmers are already seeing the increasing impact of climate change. Higher temperatures, less regular rainfall and extended periods of drought are leading to a lower crop yield and, in turn, a lower income.

Yet for more than a hundred years, cocoa has been an important crop for smallholder farms across western Africa. Today, around 70% of the world’s chocolate comes from small, privately owned cocoa farms in Côte d’Ivoire, Ghana, Cameroon and Nigeria, where local farmers are at the helm of cocoa production.

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Uncovering cocoa farming’s biggest challenges – and what’s being done to tackle them

One of the world’s biggest chocolate producers is working to address the root causes of farmer poverty, child labour risks and the impact of climate breakdown on cocoa farming communities

Unlike other crops grown for global consumption, cocoa production doesn’t take place on large-scale plantations. Instead, 95% of the world’s cocoa comes from smallholder farms just two to five hectares in size, with 70% produced across western Africa in countries including Côte d’Ivoire and Ghana.

“Cocoa is traditionally a low-yield crop,” says Darrell High, head of Nestlé’s Cocoa Plan – an initiative committed to a more sustainable approach to cocoa farming. “Each farm produces, on average, about 400kg of cocoa per hectare. It means most farmers are generating just over a tonne of cocoa each year, which, unfortunately, doesn’t bring in a lot of income.”

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