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HomeLifestyleNigel Slater’s recipes for sea bass with beans and tarragon, and pistachio...

Nigel Slater’s recipes for sea bass with beans and tarragon, and pistachio tarts with blackberries

Autumn appetites call for a little more time in the kitchen

I am not ready for winter food yet, but I need dishes that are more substantial than what has been on the table over the last few weeks. Time, I suppose, to get the jars of beans down from the cupboard, switch the oven on and get the baking recipes out.

This week I had an autumnal dish of sea bass and beans on the hob. Scented with rosemary and tarragon, this was the first of the autumn fish dishes, more robust than grilled fish, but less hearty than a traditional fish pie. There was the herb-freckled broth, too, for which we needed deep-bowled spoons.

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